Deck complete, the boat was structurally very stable and finally ready to be removed from the framing fixture. I put the beginnings of this boat in the fixture back in December 2016! After removing the screws, the first exciting task was to get an accurate weight. Up to this point I had an estimate based on the weight of what I was putting into the boat. It came out to 52.3 lbs. This is about what I think is expected for a Mistral at this stage in the game. Lots of hardware and work to do still so I am not too concerned about how to get to the 75 lb. class weight minimum. Before getting started on the bottom, I took some progress pictures:
I got this really cool rook pattern carbon fiber on closeout and wanted to use it somewhere. I figured the floor of the cockpit would be a good place. It's an area of the boat that needs to be tough and a location that I can show it off without taking too much away from beautiful wood grain of the plywood. I put down the carbon fiber and a layer of 4 oz glass over the top.
The green tape is locating the inside location of those gunwale tank bulkheads. The next step was gluing in those bulkheads.
After shaving down each side to a tight fit, I glued and clamped them in.
Forgive me Blogger, for I have sinned. It has been 5 years since my last post...
After finishing a masters degree, a bathroom remodel and then a kitchen remodel, I found that I had some extra time and some additional construction confidence. With some renewed interest in finishing the boat project and making some extra garage space, I dusted off the clamps and wood planes and got back at it.
When I left off in 2016, here's where she stood:
All clamped up:
First up was the mast tube. I like the rocking mast tube concept that we did on the Rodger Wedges so I will do that again. While other boats in the fleet selected to go with a slot shape for the top of the tube, I was concerned that building the mold for this shape would probably frustrate me. Additionally, I would like to support the tube along the forward surface internally, This is difficult when it's cylindrical and only makes contact at the tangent point. I went with a square cross section with 1/2 inch fillets on the edges. The mold was easy to build and the part popped out nicely. I have a plan for ensuring that the tube doesn't point load the mast when rocked all the way forward and aft, but we'll go into that detail later.
Here's the mold made with MDF.
0/90 3 oz glass
0/90 3 oz. glass
It came out right at the anticipated .090 thickness. Yay math! Stay in school, kids.
After I wrapped it, I added another layer of release film and then clamped it up. I probably should have bagged it, but it didn't seem necessary for this part at the time.
After finishing up the house remodel enough to live in the house, I was ready to start working on the boat again. It's getting cold in most of the country, but not here. It's still a lovely 87 degrees as my neighbors start putting their Christmas decorations up in this post Thanksgiving weekend.
At this point the boat needs some real structure. I built a couple forms for the holding fixture and secured the hull to these. I also leveled the fixture in location. It won't move again until the inside of the boat is complete. The first step on the inside of the boat would be to put the rails on the gunwales. Bring on the bucket-o-clamps - you will be busy for the next month.
Here's the dry fit.