28.10.22

First splash and the Moth Midwinters

 Between sanding and rigging the boat for the first time, there was lots to do before heading to the race course on day one of the Classic Moth Midwinters.  I didn't take many pictures, but I here's the one I did take with the port hole cover getting installed along with a wood pillar to mount the mainsheet block to.

I had a plan for things like the vang, the cunningham, the mast puller, and the traveler controls, but none of these things were proven.  The mechanics of sailing was of little consequence if the design deviation from the mistral and the Mousetrap (mod Mistral) was not successful though.  Quick recap on some of those differences:

  • Significant reduction of wetted surface forward.  The bow is much more narrow and the beam is intentionally shy of max.  
  • Intentionally reversed bow.  I added the reversed bow to reduced volume forward.
  • Shape at each station was pushed down towards the waterline so that max camber was closer to the centerline of the vessel.  The result was flatter gunwales and slightly more volume below the waterline forward compared to the Mistral
  • Flattened transom with a fair transition into the corners.  
A rite of passage for a new boat is the all-important class measurement.  The length was on the money, the width was under as expected, but the weight was REALLY close.  The balancing act to put a boat on bathroom scale is interesting to begin with.  Any little move and the number shifted.  After multiple attempts to get a stable number we finally got the scale to read a constant 75.0 lbs.  The class minimum is 75.0 lbs. The one issue that came out of measurement was my sail.  Unfortunately the sail came with a bolt rope on it when I ordered a loose footed sail.  I seam ripped off the bolt rope, but there was still too much foot shelf to measure in.  To be legal, I had to lace the sail to my boom with sail ties.  It wasn't pretty, but it got me on the race course.  

Setting up before the race on Saturday 

With all the rush to get the boat completed I didn't do a great job of documenting some of the details, but I had a fun time making carbon fiber fixtures for the boat.  These include the vang attachment to the boom, the gooseneck, and the vang/control line fitting on the mast.  Additionally I made the gantry rudder bracket and the cassette sleeve for the rudder along with a curved-to-fit flat tiller.  As seen in the picture above.  
Most of these fittings were successful.  The gooseneck, unfortunately was not.  The bolt holding the pin in loosened during the race had sufficient force to pry and brake the carbon part off the mast.  On further inspection, the composite was a bit epoxy starved and was bound to break eventually.  Glad to get that breakage out of the way on day one.  
Mast exit from the hull.  Red line is the vang, black/white is the cunningham and the gray line is the puller.

I paused quickly at the waters edge to christen #134 with a can of Corona Premier before slipping the yacht in for a (less than) graceful departure onto Boca Ciega Bay.  

Almost immediately I had lesson 1:  Add nonskid to the bottom of the boat.  I wasn't out there for 5 minutes and managed to slip and fall multiple times.  

Lesson 1 was followed shortly thereafter by lesson 2:  bring a bailer or sponge.  
As an homage to the wedge, I cut the tanks at an angle to meet the aft deck of the boat.  I think it looks cool, but when slipping and sliding with the boat on a heel, water entry from the back was pretty frequent.  doah.  Pretty sure Jeff  L. told me not to do that.  

After a not so bad start to the first race  I found myself moving backwards in the fleet pretty quickly.  The boat wasn't pointing very well at all.  I hadn't started playing with the mast puller yet, but I started with the mast aft.  This, along with a very hard to adjust traveler made upwind in the lighter breeze of the morning a challenge.  I figured some tuning out, but the loop around the mast that I had the puller attached to was slipping and getting longer.  This was not helping my situation.  To add to my problems, the boom blocks were not staying in the locations I tied them.  I had hoped that a couple clove hitches on either side and some duct tape stoppers would maintain their location through the weekend.  I was wrong.  The forward block was on the move aft.  

Lesson 3: fasten boom blocks to the boom

At some point the slipping block made crossing the boat nearly impossible.  This led to a capsize and swimming.  After 3 races in a group of 5 Gen 2 boats, I managed a 4-5-5.  After recovering from the capsize and turning the inside of the boat into a jacuzzi, I decided it was time to head to shore, regroup and make some tweaks.  
A quick swim after getting the mainsheet clothesline job

I made it out in time to watch the last race start, but I did get a chance to go upwind with the lovely sea breeze that filled in.  The boat felt good with the mast finally adjusted forward...and then BANG! the gooseneck let loose.  I limped in to the beach to pack it in for the day.  Not a great first showing, but she has potential.  I'll take it.  
Off the starting line during one of the races on Saturday

With a new gooseneck ready to go and some hospital socks that my parents gift me (complete with a nonskid bottom), I was ready for day two.  The day was light air dying off to nothing but we managed to get four solid races in.  What a difference a day makes.  I got some great advice from a fleet full of smart people and had some time to implement some changes.  Traveler in the center is key for the light stuff.  I ditched the 2:1 mainsheet system too.  I also fixed the puller so I could get the mast raked farther forward upwind.  With the mast and board position slightly different from the fleet, getting the rake forward really made a big difference. I like light air, and typically do ok in these conditions.  Between that and some positive changes on the boats...and hospital socks, day 2 went well.  I was challenging the leaders and pulled off a 1-1-2-1 for the day.  I learned a lot about the boat during the regatta and there are lots of areas to improve.  Time to optimize the boat and get ready for the Nationals in Elizabeth City, NC.  
Family and friends on the Hrududu.  It was great to have some physical and morale support for the weekend! So glad they could all be there. Getting this boat on the water has been in the works for 7 years.

Prestart jockeying for position

Good side view of the boat with the reversed bow

Getting ready to round the windward mark

Filling and fairing, but not real fair

Close inspection of the bottom after adding fiberglass and a coat of epoxy showed a bottom that needed some additional fairing.  The option of clear coat to show of the wood grain of the hull was just not an option any more.  I regret spending the time to stain the thing.  It would have looked good if I could have made it work. Oh well, on to plan B.  I got to work filling and fairing the bottom with putty.  I elected to put a white high build epoxy primer on the bottom as a final finish.  I selected Interlux Interprotect 2000E Epoxy Primer.  I'm not fancy enough to spray on so I went with the rolled on approach with a fine foam rollers.  

Last glimpse of the plywood finish as putty was applied to uneven surfaces. 

Boat after three coats of epoxy primer

Two more coats of the primer applied to finish out the hull

As I have learned, you need to wait long enough for the primer to be sandable without gumming up your sandpaper...but not too long.  Life and work got in the way of finishing out the hull.  By the time I got back to it 10 days later, this stuff was really hard!  I gave up and figured that I could get it sanded  before the skippers meeting at the Midwinters.  Wow, this stuff is really hard.  On race day two of us got to it and didn't make much progress after aggressively hitting it with 320 grit in places before working our way to a 600 grit wet sand.  Not great, but good enough.  Race day one had bigger problems than a fair hull for me to worry about though...

  

Blades

With the boat looking like a boat, focus was turned to the rudder and daggerboard.  I had previously glued the blanks for both using alder wood.  The alder was cut into 1" strips and laminated together with the each adjacent piece flipped end to end and rotated 180 degrees to minimize warp.  First step was to plane the parts.  Thankfully I had a buddy with a nice DeWalt planer that was willing to help me out.  

Once both sides are parallel and planar, the fun can begin.  The design I chose was a NACA0012 with a 6" chord for the rudder and a NACA0009 with a 9" chord for the daggerboard.  The plan was to use my table saw and cut down to the outer mold line of each foil.  Using an offset table from one of many online sources, I created a spreadsheet that output the cut depth for each 1/8" step.  This would leave a 1/16" wood fin between cuts. To ensure symmetry, the same cut is made on both sides of the blank.  Here's the foil cross sectional shapes:

Rudder blank half way through cuts

Rudder blank with table saw cuts complete

After all the cuts were completed, I knocked out the wood fins to get down to the rough foil shape.
Then there was a bunch of sanding to perfect the shape.  
Once the shape was looking good the next step was to put a couple layers of carbon and a layer of glass over the top.  I have some peel ply so I wrapped that on the blade after wetting out the cloth.  The rudder fit in my kitchen vacuum bag material so I elected to vacuum bag it using that.  I used paper towels as the bleeder cloth.  It actually worked pretty well!

Sanded rudder blade over vacuum bag material

Rudder over the carbon/glass cloth

Rudder after bagging and vacuuming/sealing in the bag


Once the rudder was unwrapped I sanded it down using 400 and then to 600 grit paper.  A thin coat of epoxy was then applied over that.  Finally, one last sanding to get it to something race ready.  Unfortunately, I only had time to finish the rudder at this point.  The daggerboard from the #73 Bad Hare Day (the wedge), wasn't the prettiest blade, but it would work for now.  I needed to focus on finishing the bottom of the boat and putting hardware on the deck.  Lots to do and only a couple months until the Midwinters at Gulfport!

 

19.1.22

Fixture freedom

 Deck complete, the boat was structurally very stable and finally ready to be removed from the framing fixture.  I put the beginnings of this boat in the fixture back in December 2016!  After removing the screws, the first exciting task was to get an accurate weight.  Up to this point I had an estimate based on the weight of what I was putting into the boat.  It came out to 52.3 lbs.  This is about what I think is expected for a Mistral at this stage in the game.  Lots of hardware and work to do still so I am not too concerned about how to get to the 75 lb. class weight minimum.  Before getting started on the bottom, I took some progress pictures:




Back in the garage, it was time to fair and finish the bottom with glass cloth.  The first step was to add material and fair the bow.  I intentionally cut the bow off and added a skeleton piece of plywood to build up the volume of the bow at the waterline.  
After putty application

Port side after fairing

The next step was to glass the hull.  I put a layer of 8 oz. cloth on each side with a 4 inch overlap along the keel.
dry fit and trimming of glass cloth

view from the aft end of the boat

After wetting out the cloth

After glassing the boat bottom, I faired the hull along the glass cloth overlap edges and put a couple more coats of epoxy over that to build up and smooth out the bottom.  Taking advantage of a warm, sunny day, I put the boat outside to finish curing. I intentionally didn't put the UV stain on the front of the boat.  The assumption was that it was going to get a bunch of fairing compound added and would require paint.  Maybe not the best decision in hindsight, but it is what it is.  I will paint the front when I'm done adding epoxy and fairing the bottom.  The mahogany stain is a really deep red.  Looks like a glass of cabernet.  Thankfully I still had some of the alcohol based stain and was able to touch up in places where sanding was needed.  


The next area of focus is on the blades.  I picked up a piece of alder wood for this task.  This species is strong and light.  I laminated 1" strips of the wood with each adjacent piece rotated and flipped 180 degrees to ensure the boards don't bow later down the road.  The daggerboard is 5'-6 at the moment, but this will probably get trimmed down.  









Button up the deck

With a slight drop in temperature and a little time for garage projects, I got back to working on the boat in November 2021.  The interior structure of the boat was previously completed so it was time to put the deck on.  I made templates with poster board for all the pieces and then cut the wood equivalents in 3mm ply.  Thinking ahead, I also made a carbon fiber/plywood tiller that is curved at the forward end to get over the deck tapers at the aft end of the hull.  The last boat had serious tiller issues since it was a rushed afterthought.  Not making that mistake again.


The bow was completed first and glued down.  After that I worked on the tank closeouts at the back of the boat. 



With the bow and aft tank pieces cut, the tanks were fitted and prepped for gluing. Also seen below is the first shot at making hiking straps.  I made a second pair in black since these are wee bit too flashy for my taste.  When you use up what's lying around this is what you get.  The boat is slightly narrower at the beam than a mistral.  I am going with a two strap configuration for two reasons.  1:  I have short legs.  2:  to compensate for the reduced leverage from a smaller girth. I am looking to comfortably get my mass farther from the hulls center of buoyancy.


After lots of sanding and fairing at the deck joints, the top side was ready for glass.  At this point the boat was less than 50 lbs so I could afford to completely glass the topside.  

Prepping glass cloth for lamination

Some cold nights required tenting and heaters to get my slow cure epoxy to kick


Deck after glassing

Deck after 2 additional epoxy coats.  It's starting to look finished!




1.8.21

Adding some bones to the boat

I got this really cool rook pattern carbon fiber on closeout and wanted to use it somewhere.  I figured the floor of the cockpit would be a good place.  It's an area of the boat that needs to be tough and a location that I can show it off without taking too much away from beautiful wood grain of the plywood.  I put down the carbon fiber and a layer of  4 oz glass over the top.  

The green tape is locating the inside location of those gunwale tank bulkheads.  The next step was gluing in those bulkheads. 

After they were sufficiently staked in, a fillet of epoxy filler and glass tape was added on both sides to further strengthen the bulkhead junction to the hull.  

Next up, splines were added between bulkheads for supporting the tank skins.  

The trickiest pieces to define were the vertical walls of the tank.  I made templates from construction paper for each side along with the foredeck top.  My buddy Nori helped out as much as she could.


After shaving down each side to a tight fit, I glued and clamped them in.  


I decided that the tanks didn't need to extend all the way to the transom so I tapered them to a point just forward of where the traveler will attach.  The picture below shows the boat after those faceted pieces were attached to the back of the gunwale tanks.  

Next I added the splines between bulkheads to define the top of the tanks. It is starting to take shape!